It is early June in the Belgian Ardennes, and we are en route to Durbuy, known
as the smallest city in the world. Before reaching our destination, we pause in
the sleepy village of Sprimont, nestled along the River Ourthe. Here, a small
group of Canadian Geese stand in the shallows, cleaning their feathers in the
low water. Later, we watch them drift slowly downstream, joined by another bird
that at first lingers on the bank. Its markings are different—likely an Egyptian
Goose—adding a touch of variety to the scene. From there, the road carries us on
to Durbuy. With schools deep in examination time, and the summer holidays still
a few weeks away, the streets are hushed. The air is warm, the sun lingers on
the cobblestones, yet the town feels unhurried. Restaurants set out their
terraces in quiet anticipation, while only a handful of visitors wander through
the medieval lanes. Stone houses, weathered by centuries, line narrow streets
that wind their way up towards the castle on its rocky outcrop. Granted city
rights in 1331, Durbuy has proudly carried its title through the ages, though
today it feels more like a village wrapped in history than a bustling town. The
River Ourthe bends gently at its feet—once a vital trade route, now a peaceful
backdrop for kayaks and wandering herons. The stillness allows the past to speak
more clearly: Roman traces, medieval craftsmen, feudal lords, and pilgrims
passing through the Ardennes. The 18th-century castle of the d’Ursel family
still watches over the city, while the church of Saint-Nicolas anchors its
heart. Even the topiary garden, with its playful shapes, seems to wait quietly
for the summer and weekend crowds to return.
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